This time in Italy was a
returning ….
Long ago....
As a college student in the summer of 1965 I traveled many
weeks around Italy with my Danish cousin Eva in a VW Bug purchased in Germany, used
by my father and mother for some months, then by me for several months, finally
shipped from Copenhagen to NYC to a drive-away to California to brother Art ….
Eva and I ambled our way along – Florence, Rome, Naples,
Capri, Cinque Terra, the Amalfi Coast, Ravenna, and Venice.
Two young women with a whole summer, a nifty car, and just a
few dollars (or kroner) to spend – many memories remain, along with a few good
photos taken with my Ricoh square-format box camera.
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Ceiling Fresco, Galleria Borghese |
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Galleria Borghese, Rome
Exterior sculptures were removed by Napolean and are now in
Paris in the Louvre |
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Rape of Prosperpine, Bernini 1621-1622 |
Sometime in the 90’s studio mate Skip Willis and I visited Barbara
MacCallum and Bob Johnson for several weeks Sicily – just WHEN was that exactly?
While Bob worked at the University in Catania, Barbara and I
… and sometimes Skip … explored the whole island right at the time that some
prominent Italian Mafia were on trial --- and I recall with a shudder the
wide-stride soldiers with Oozie guns outside the courtrooms in Palermo
So … these 6 days in Italy were returning to Italy....
Rome 2015
The World Odyssey came in to Civitaveccia which is the port
about an hour north of Rome.
DAY ONE: My first SAS
Field Lab with Drawing class to the Borghese Galleria and the Villa Borghese
gardens in Rome. After a morning of drawing from the Bernini sculptures, the
Caravaggio paintings, contemporary couture fashion sculptures by Azzedine
Alaia, and more, we lunched under the trees at a long sidewalk table. After
lunch the class people-watched and people-sketched at the nearby Spanish Steps.
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David with the Head of Goliath, Caravaggio |
DAY TWO: Luncheon in
Rome with fellow SAS Faculty as the guests of Academic Dean Sharon Hostler and
her daughter Gioia.
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Via Margutta, Rome, where Roman Holiday was filmed |
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Old Rome City Gate near Plaza de Popolo |
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I believe this is an embassy sitting atop Roman ruins from centuries earlier. |
Orvieto
DAY THREE: Day trip
to Orvieto. – a medieval city on Etruscan foundations, perched atop a rocky
hilltop riddled with more than 1000 caves which were used for industry (olive
oil and wind production, weaving hemp ropes, cutting masonry blocks, storage,
plus hundreds of dovecotes for pigeons!)
Beside it’s majestic beauty, the Orvieto Cathedral is
remarkable to me for it’s illustrative paintings of Judgement Day, Hell, and
anit-Hell! Wow!
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Orvieto |
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Orvieto cathedral - one of two Gothic
cathedrals in Italy |
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What earthly sins might result in a green bottom on Judgement Day in Orvieto Cathedral ? |
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Louise, Katrina, and the waitress in mini-panini shop |
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Below Orvieto, a maze of 1000+ caves were used for industry in addition
to storage.
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Caves were dug under the houses to house pigeons for
a source of meat and for sales |
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To feed, the pigeons flew freely out to the valleys from the vertical cliffs of
the sides of Orivieto town on top. |
Civitaveccia
DAY FOUR: Errands in
Civitaveccia plus an afternoon visit to Repubblica dei Regazzi, a boy’s home of
60+ years for middle and high school age orphans, wards of the court,
delinquents – and recently, including some girls. The noteworthy aspect of this center is that
the youth themselves govern, establish and enforce ‘laws’, issue and earn their
own money, and prepare themselves for participation in the larger adult
society.
A pick-up game of
football (soccer) between SAS students and Repubblica students was the
highlight of the day!
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We enjoyed a tasty custom salad lunch in this cafe - only we did not get the memo that orange florescent vests were the appropriate attire...... |
Naples
DAY FIVE:
Transit day
to Naples:
Students and faculty may
elect to travel overland or to stay on board – it was a quite day of passage.
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Passing Mt. Vesuvius as we approach Naples. |
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The Naples harbor Pilot zips over to the MV World Odyssey to
direct the ship into port. |
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Staff Captain Korny, the Naples Pilot, and the Captain are attentive as
the MV World Odyssey comes alongside the pier.
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Naples at night: busy, energetic,and loud. |
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Pulcinello |
Procida Island
DAY SIX:
My second
Field Lab with the other section of Drawing to the island of Procida which is a
small, stunningly picturesque island in the Bay of Naples. We took a 35-minute
JetFoil to arrive there.
Wow!
This is somewhat like a tiny Capri, but with only a few
tourists. A fishing industry island with
multi-colored houses, steep winding stone streets, and the Abbey St. Michele
Archangelo at the highest point, this island was a delight to experience and to
draw.
How about that for a drawing field trip???? An almost-perfect Field Lab ... until one student drifted away and missed our return Jetfoil - OOPS! - but she promptly caught up with us 20 minutes later.
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Rain on Pricida Island |
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Students sketching from a street terrace, Procida Island |
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Library and museum under S. Michele Archangelo Church, Procida |
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Students drawing along Via Roma, waiting for the Jetfoil to take us
back to Naples |
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I mean, really???????? Too picture-postcard to be real?
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