Saturday, September 28, 2013

IRELAND: Sampling 5200 years of history


Crows at twilight in Cashel
Fuscias grow abundantly across Ireland

3200 BCE:  the Neolithic peoples of the Boyne River Valley built passage tombs at Newgrange, Knowth, and Dowth, aligned perfectly with the Winter Solstice.
These ancient mounds pre-date the pyramids in Egypt by at least 570 years and Stongehenge by 1000 years. If the sun is shining, for 17 minutes at sunrise on the Winter Solstice a shaft of morning light pierces the openings of the mound into the sacred central chamber.
The simulation created by the national guides (with a 40-watt bulb) is magical.
Annually now there is a lottery for a small number of people to witness this profound Winter Solstice event … if the sun happens to be shining on that one morning of each year.

Rock art from Knowth
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Newgrange actual entrance to the passage tomb - except - NOT the wooden stairs
Neolithic spiral design art, 3200 BCE

At the time, 5200 years ago, there were approximately 2000 people in the Boyne River Valley.
Over the time period of 3 generations they moved massive rocks from 12 km. in one direction, selected and transported
white quartz and round water-washed rocks from twice the distance in another direction, carved the 'kerbstones' (including images on the inner side of the huge rocks for the spirits to see), moved everything into position, and then piled 6 meters of soil on the top. The 3 sites Newgrange, Knowth, and Dowth are arranged in a large triangle of several miles on each side.  The cremated remains of numbers of people were found inside. 



Contrary to expectations of Ireland, the sun was indeed strong and warm during these 4 days – no jackets, scarves, nor rain gear needed.

In a dandy blue rental car, Louise and I traveled to Kilkenny, a medieval market town complete with castle, bridges, parks, and a 2013 citizen’s protest march.  And indeed it was a busy Saturday market day in this lovely Tipperary town.  Louise has much experience driving on “the other side” of the road so she was our trusty driver.  In France I drove the standard shift cars (which are WAY less expensive) and in Ireland Louise drove "on the other" side with an automatic.  It’s all good.





A citizen's protest at the 'local' castle.


Go figure...!
Nearby in Cashel on a natural rock mount is the Rock of Cashel.  Prior to 800 AD there were structures on this site.  From 800 to 1100 AD there was a Romanesque Christian church.  From 1235 AD construction on the Gothic cathedral began and the site flourished as a worship site until the 16th century when it was abandoned.
View from the Rock of Cashel ruins down below to another ruins of a Cistercian Monastary.

The earliest gravesites are from the 12th century and burials continue there, to this day for certain select families.

What remains of St. Patrick's Cross after centuries of storms and weather.

Ruins of the Gothic cathedral from the 14th century.

Now really, Louise was standing up hill and I was standing down hill
hence the 'Mutt and Jeff 'look of the two of us!


Evidence remains of brilliant fresco paintings on the interior walls of the church.  

Perhaps one day my Dahlia garden will be as lovely
as this one in Cashel town.
Irish Food:  Scones with jam and cream, dark brown bread with butter, creamed soups, cooked carrots and boiled cabbage, fish and chips, and more – there are plenty of tasty Irish foods to enjoy.


Glendalough, with 2 lakes and pleasant walking trails, Glendalough is a favorite location for Irish families and tourists alike. The walking roads and boardwalks through the marshes provide a nature escape for Dubliners and for visitors to Tipperary.  

Trees marching like soldiers up the ridge beyond Glendalough lake

Private Bed & Breakfast lodgings are found in every Irish town.  Riversdale House is located along a river with huge stepping stones for access across the river to a walking train.


No green to be seen as one passes through Wicklow Gap.

View from Wicklow Gap.

Derrydown Bridge, ca 1700